You could go even higher, with a 0.8 mm or even 1 mm nozzle, but you will notice a drop in detail. The most popular nozzle size is 0.4 mm because it offers a good ratio between print speed and quality, if you want to print a bit faster while also retaining detail, then I recommend installing a 0.6 mm nozzle. It’s not a surprise that the easiest way of printing faster is to install a bigger nozzle. As always, do your own research and consider all the implications before doing modifications to your 3D printer. I wrote a few articles regarding 3D printer upgrades, and some of the included recommendations also help improving the 3D printing speed. Just like with Arc Welder, using MeatPack requires firmware support so double check if your printer already has this enabled in the firmware. Its effectiveness is just as impressive, managing to reduce the g-code size to about 50%. MeatPack is another plugin which compressed the g-code delivered to the printer to allow for more g-code commands to be sent through the slow serial connection. For example, you could use a higher acceleration and jerk values inside the model where the infill is printed because it will improve print speed without impacting the print quality of your external walls. I like to adjust acceleration and jerk directly in IdeaMaker because it offers a granular adjustment for each time of movement made by the printer. You can set these values in most of the slicers. After carefully tuning these values, your 3D printing speed will be greatly improved for free, and you will also remove ringing present on the external walls of your model. If you don’t want to mess with Klipper firmware, then you can adjust the acceleration and jerk or junction deviation values. Tune the acceleration and jerk/junction deviation values Usually, it’s just a matter of replacing the config file. I recommend looking up your printer online, and check if others have previously installed Klipper on your printer. I covered the Klipper installation process on the Creality Ender 6 and Kingroon KP3S, but the process should be comparable on other printers. If you choose to install Octoprint, you will also get access to a huge library of plugins which add distinctive features to your 3D printer. With Klipper you also get Wi-Fi connectivity which allows you to remotely control your 3D printer and send the g-code files over the air. If you don’t need fancy functionality, you can run Klipper even from a Pi Zero. The most popular solution is installing Klipper on a Raspberry Pi, which started to become a common piece of hardware. Installing and using Klipper firmware is free, but you need a computer to run this. If you are using an older 8-bit 3D printer board, by installing Klipper all the processing load will be moved to a Raspberry Pi and your board will only have to do the moves without it being slowed down anymore because of slow G-core interpretation. Print quality is a bit better when both internal and external layer print speeds are close because the flow rate will be more even. A good idea is to use a lower speed for the external wall (something between 30mm/s and 50mm/s) but try to keep the speed differences as low as possible. On regular 3D printers, I don’t usually go much higher than ~50-60mm/ second for the internal and external wall. Adjust print speed valuesīesides layer height, the next important setting I adjust in IdeaMaker to improve print speed is the actual speed values used for various sections. Finally, for draft prints, where I don’t really care about print quality and layer lines are not a problem, I go with a 0.25mm layer height and even 0.3 mm in some cases. I don’t usually go lower than this because I don’t think the print quality improvements are worth the extra print time. This value lowers the layer height and provides improved print quality, but the print time can increase significantly. For detailed prints, I mostly use 0.15 mm.
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